By Anthony St. Clair
For the Oregon Beer Growler
Women beer professionals from all over the world are converging on San Diego for the Pink Boots Society’s 10th Anniversary Conference & Beer Festival June 2-3. In addition to the decadal birthday celebration, the conference brings together all-female faculty — a first for beer conferences — who will lead workshops and discussions on a range of topics.
Yet the conference represents far more. It kicks off the future of what executive director Emily Engdahl calls a “sisterhood” of craft beer professionals in the 1,200-member organization, which has 50 chapters in 10 countries from Australia to Spain.
Engdahl first became involved with Pink Boots in 2013. The Society had recently received 501(c)(3) status, and Engdahl wanted to help out at a fundraising party held that February. By June she had assumed her role of executive director (though she also has a full-time career as an office manager and fiduciary at a family business). “I’ve seen these women not just on a professional — but personal level. They come together,” says Engdahl. “I loved the tribe, everyone I met, the camaraderie, the amazing wealth of knowledge I found in the beer industry.”
And yes, that includes the pink, which has also made the organization a sometimes-lightning rod for controversy.
“I take issue when people tell us we shouldn’t be pink. If you are a feminist, why the hell would you let anyone tell you what color you’re supposed to wear?” says Engdahl. “I love pink. It’s one of my favorite colors.”
She also points out that in the 18th century and until World War I, pink was a masculine color: softer than the more aggressive red, but still manly. Girls wore blue. “We are reclaiming pink. It’s the ultimate feminist movement to wear pink,” says Engdahl. “Just as you shouldn’t tell a girl she should only like fruity beers and not stout, why would you tell a girl she shouldn’t wear pink if that’s the color she wants to wear?”
Pink Boots evolved out of co-founder Teri Fahrendorf’s 2007 road trip, where she worked to connect with female brewers and help further their careers all while donning a pair of brewhouse-ready pink boots (a pre-trip gift from Fahrendorf’s mother-in-law). While traversing some of America’s 1,511 craft breweries, she kept hearing the same thing from the women brewers she met: “I thought I was the only one.”
Fast-forward 10 years, and Fahrendorf can see how much has changed. “We were pioneers,” she says. “Having Pink Boots, whether members or not, gives women confidence to shoot for the top. Some women don’t need it, but some do. Sometimes it takes a very simple role model. We’ve changed the dialogue, and the dialogue now includes women.”
From fewer than two-dozen women at their inaugural lunch in 2008, Pink Boots had grown to about 2,500 members in 2015. At that point, membership was free (though many members would donate funds) for women making any portion of their income in the beer industry. In 2016, Pink Boots made some big changes: they established a more organized board, started charging membership dues and gave chapters more control over money and communication. And to qualify for membership, a 25 percent income threshold was instituted.
“We wiped out our entire membership database,” says Engdahl. “Now we’ve already rebuilt over half those numbers. It’s a more professionally and educationally centered organization.” By 2018, Engdahl estimates membership will be above 2,250.
With U.S. craft breweries potentially topping 6,000 by the end of 2017, Engdahl is not surprised by Pink Boots’ growth — or the number of women joining the industry, though how that’s happening has changed. People often found a job in craft beer either through family business ties or via a winding, indirect path. Now Engdahl sees young adults enrolling in college or vocational programs specifically to launch careers. “Brewing and brewing science is a viable lifestyle, one you can enter deliberately and with intent,” she explains. “That’s very exciting and very different from any other way that we’ve seen brewing become a vocation before.”
The anniversary event was made possible thanks to “an amazing team of women who dreamed up this whole conference,” says Fahrendorf. As the Society’s most active chapter, San Diego was a natural location. But in addition to providing education and motivation, Engdahl wants women to come out of the conference knowing “they can do what they want to do in the industry and nothing holds them back,” she says. “I want these women to be seen as role models and as heroes in the industry. Breweries exact a lot of social change, and I think it’s important to remember the social magic we do in beer.”
As Engdahl looks ahead to the next 10 years, she hopes she will be able to look back and see that Pink Boots has changed the industry and overall awareness of broader societal problems that can make it difficult for women to advance. “I want it to not matter if you’re a man or a woman in the beer industry. Do you make good beer? Are you a nice person?”
She also suggests ways men can support women in craft beer. “Speak out and make sure you are being the best feminist you can be. It doesn’t have to look big or heroic. It just has to be the normal everyday things we do to encourage society toward equity,” says Engdahl. “Make sure your daughter isn’t getting left out of STEM in middle school. Get your sister a homebrew kit. Patronize businesses that support Pink Boots and tell them you are glad they support women in the beer industry. For associations, ask for more diversity in the board and in presenters.”
Pink Boots, though, isn’t about special treatment — it’s about equity and betterment for all. “I hope I can work myself out of a job,” says Engdahl, but cites educational system deficiencies, sexual harassment issues and inequality around the world as proof we’re not there yet.
By Kris McDowell
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The writer behind the recently published zine, A Feminist's Guide to Beer Drinking, is unsurprisingly, a girl (and yes, she's OK being a "girl"). She's also a certified Cicerone, coauthor of the book “Hop in the Saddle” and has her first solo book coming out this fall.
Before Lucy Burningham came to the beer mecca that is Portland, she was living in Utah, which has laws she diplomatically describes as "weird." Those used to the beer-favorable laws found here, however, might describe Utah’s limit of 4% ABV on beers sold at grocery stores and convenience stores “shockingly antiquated.” Moreover, so-called “high point beer” with an ABV above 4% is limited to bottles only, even at state liquor stores, breweries, bars and restaurants. Those laws have resulted in a general lack of craft beer (although that is slowly changing) and for Lucy, a lack of a palate for beer.
When she moved to Portland in 2005 to pursue a master's in creative nonfiction writing at Portland State University, she fell in love with the city after being wooed, in part, by its craft beer scene. While interviewing a beer sommelier for her first beer article she not only learned that beer could taste like bananas; Burningham was also impressed with the beer culture. People knew the brewers, they expressed a tremendous amount of pride for local beers and were passionate about their favorites. It's not hard to understand how she became hooked on Portland, on drinking craft beer and on writing about craft beer.
That first beer article turned out to be the start of a new point of interest and direction in her journalistic career. Lucy had written for years about food. In fact, the thesis for her master's was on Oregon truffles. But Portland's beer enticed her to explore her beer palate. Jumping into craft beer Portland-style, IPAs were her first love due to what she describes as their "bracing bitterness." Beyond being drawn in by the taste, her curiosity was piqued by the wide variety of color variations both within and across beer styles. All of this combined with her journalistic skills to produce pieces for well-known publications such as Bon Appetit, Men’s Journal, The New York Times and SAVEUR.
Out of her vast collection of writing, it was Lucy's first piece for The New York Times that she is most proud of. The article, “A Hop and a Sip to Fresh Ales,” was not only her first high-profile beer piece, but its research put her on a hop farm for the first time. At Sodbuster Farms in Salem, she was introduced to the excitement and incredible smells of the hop harvest. That, along with other beer experiences, opened her eyes to how much there was to explore, which she continued to do through writing. It also spurred her to pursue formal beer education and become a Certified Cicerone.
The Cicerone Certification Program offers three levels of certification with Certified Cicerone being the second, giving students a well-rounded education on beer as well as the skills needed to assess beer quality. Passing a comprehensive exam is necessary for certification and Lucy took the preparation to heart. She learned what it’s like to be a beer student — experiencing the intense pressure and feelings of being completely overwhelmed. Tough decisions arose, including times where she wasn’t sure whether she should just simply sip and enjoy a beer or continue to study in order to pass the exam. Her hard work and dedication paid off when she passed the exam and, as a bonus, she realized she had the content for her forthcoming book, “My Beer Year.”
Lucy Burningham writes about beer for well-known publications and has a new zine called A Feminist’s Guide to Beer Drinking. The journalist wanted to expand her experience with food writing by turning to beer after moving from Utah to Portland and falling love with the craft beer culture. Photo by Kris McDowell
While it will be a few months before her new book is available, her most recent work, A Feminist's Guide to Beer Drinking, is available in hard copy and online. Part of the Portland Zine series, it's one in a set of independently published booklets that reflects the progressive spirit and DIY ethos of the city. When Lucy was initially approached about the guide, she wasn’t sure she could pull it off. As she was brainstorming her approach, she started thinking about the women in the Oregon beer world and how they help to define it. Before she knew it, she was excited about what lay ahead.
With her proposal accepted, she interviewed a number of women, including Gayle Goschie of Goschie Farms, Miranda Kasten of Lady Brew Portland, Teri Fahrendorf of the Pink Boots Society and Whitney Burnside of 10 Barrel Brewing. She wanted the project to be part serious and part playful. It starts off serious, with a section on Gayle where she talks about her role in taking over a portion of the family hop-growing business and changing its focus to craft brewers to meet the changing times.
The playful tone becomes apparent as you move through the pages and find articles such as “How to Evaluate Beer Like a Lady *Or a Man *Or Fluid Gender of Preference.” There's also a guide for hosting a ladies' beer night that concludes with the instruction to "dream about your next ladies' beer night." In addition to Lucy's writing style, the zine's tone is assisted by illustrations from Deirdre Mahon and the layout, reminiscent of a scrapbook of favorite memories, pulls off the balance she was looking for.
The balance in the zine reflects a similar balance in Lucy's feelings about gender in craft beer. While acknowledging that gender can't be ignored and there are still biases and stereotypes, it's not something that she focuses on. Rather it's something that surfaces somewhat unconsciously — like when she finds herself at a beer event counting the number of men versus the number of women.
She's seen the number of women involved in craft beer increase in the last 10 years and takes the count as more of a quick observation than of something to dwell on. In her experience, she's generally found the beer community to be very welcoming, spurring her curiosity instead of discriminating against it. It's the occasional situation that catches her by surprise briefly. For instance, there was the time she was told by a guy that “you don’t look like a beer drinker,” which left her a bit bewildered. Much like the boy picking on girls on the playground, there's bound to be one who hasn't figured out that both guys and girls enjoy craft beer and can even enjoy craft beer together.
It’s back-to-school season, and if you’ve been wanting to learn more about the craft brewing industry it might be the perfect time to enroll in Portland State University’s Business of Craft Brewing program, which began in 2013. Director Mellie Pullman teaches two classes and has a wealth of knowledge as brewmaster and co-owner of Utah’s first brewery and from her experience as associate professor in PSU’s business department. Photo courtesy of Portland State University
By Erica Tiffany-Brown
Of the Oregon Beer Growler
Remember those days growing up when summer wouldn’t even be half over and you’d be bombarded with the dreadful “Back to School” advertisements reminding you that classes were just around the corner?
Now imagine if your lesson plans took place in a virtual brewery. Or cidery. Or distillery.
With Portland State University’s Business of Craft Brewing program, your fun doesn’t have to come to a screeching halt when summer is over.
In fact, you might actually enjoy yourself. How do I know? I took the introductory class earlier this year — and, honestly, I can’t remember ever having this much fun in school (sorry Ms. Miller).
But don’t just take my word for it. Benjamin Morgan completed the program last summer before getting promoted to the marketing department at Firestone Walker Brewing Co. By April, he was approached by Anheuser-Busch for a job offer in Portland as a trade activation manager.
“The program is awesome for anybody looking to learn more about the industry. It's great for those who just need a kick in the ass to get their own project started and/or a better understanding of what it takes to be a part of the industry. The resources, quality of knowledge and experience of the instructors are the best out there, hands down.”
While a career with A-B InBev may not be the first thing that comes to mind when signing up for the Business of Craft Brewing, the program is actually quite diverse.
Since the program began in fall 2013, around 900 people have been enrolled in the various courses. Some people take four or five courses (earning the certificate and beyond) while some only take one or two courses, depending on their needs.
But the program isn’t just for Oregon beer lovers — or even beer lovers at all. Although beer is the No. 1 focus of students, about half as many students focus on cider. Spirits are third, with mead and kombucha rounding out the fourth.
According to program director Mellie Pullman, there was a heavy Northwest student base in the beginning, but now only about one-third of those enrolled are from Oregon and Washington. The other two-thirds of students come from all over the world. Thirty-seven states are represented, as well as Puerto Rico, Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, Germany, Japan, Mexico, Spain, Switzerland, U.K. and Africa (where there are Peace Corps and aid workers preparing for U.S. return).
“It's great to have people sharing ideas of where they think there are business opportunities. Also, people learn what's going on in different states and countries. Often they meet people from their own state and then get together with each other to see if they want to work together or just help each other in their own efforts,” Pullman said.
Pullman, who currently teaches both the basic business class and the business management class, has a wealth of knowledge. She is not only an associate professor of operations management in the PSU School of Business, but also was brewmaster and co-owner of Utah’s first brewery, Wasatch Brewery (along with many other accolades). As the first female brewmaster in modern American history, I’m sure Pullman is undoubtedly pleased that women make up 30-40 percent of the classes, with there even being a full scholarship awarded once a year by Teri Fahrendorf’s Pink Boots Society.
In addition to Pink Boots, there is also a full scholarship awarded each year for one active or veteran military personnel, with more scholarships being added as the program moves forward.
Just like there is no shortage of diversity among students, the instructors and courses themselves offer a nice variety that evolves from year to year.
In order to complete the program and earn the certificate (as well as an investor-ready business plan), a student needs to take four required courses: the basic business class and the business management class and then two electives of their choice (which expand and get upgraded every year).
Bryan Shull of Trap Door Brewing in Vancouver, Wash., is an example of a student who didn’t need to complete the program, but said that taking the first two courses was enough to get his business plan in shape for bank financing. Shull is not a brewer, but was in need of better business information to decide if he even wanted to open a brewery. The program must have done the trick, because Trap Door Brewing will be opening its doors later this fall.
When it comes to starting up a brewery, Shull claims the program has helped him in “every way,” from cost projections, profit and losses, equipment sizing, vendor selection, business plan data to networking. He even plans to take the strategic craft beverage marketing class this winter.
Shull’s words of sage advice? “Stay on task, do not get behind EVER. This is a fast-paced course with volumes of information that build on previous weeks’ work. Getting behind is a recipe for wasted time and money.”
While this is a fully online program that requires a great deal of self-motivation, don’t let that deter you. There are plenty of attention-grabbing field videos that feature interviews with industry professionals working in their element, weekly live sessions with guest speakers from all over the country, and as I may have mentioned, a uniquely awesome virtual brewery experience.
“I still keep in contact with instructors, guest lecturers and fellow students today. The program is such that you get what you put into it, and it's worth every penny to give it your all,” Morgan concluded.
If you’re looking to expand your knowledge about the craft brewing industry, look into the Business of Craft Brewing. I promise you won’t be singing any Alice Cooper songs when “School’s Out” for summer.
Laura Bryngelson, CEO of Calapooia Brewing in Albany, may not get all of the fame and glory normally associated with brewers in the industry, but her role is just as critical. In addition to running the business, Bryngelson works as a software programmer and is the primary caretaker of her family’s household. Photo by Erica Tiffany-Brown
By Erica Tiffany-Brown
Of the Oregon Beer Growler
It’s no secret that brewers are basically the rock stars of the beer industry. Just like meeting the musician who sings your favorite song, meeting the brewer who makes your favorite beer can be quite the pivotal moment for a beer fan. They’re the ones who, albeit with slightly less fabulous hair and a lack of leather pants, seem to gain most of the recognition at a brewery.
The owners, much like the manager of a band, don’t really get as much acknowledgment as they should for being the glue that holds it all together. However, at Calapooia Brewing in Albany, a true triple threat walks among us.
Laura Bryngelson co-owns Calapooia with her husband Mark Martin, but she holds the official title of CEO. She may not be one of the brewers, but combined with working at least 20 to 25 hours at Calapooia each week (not including festivals and special events), she works 20 hours as a software programmer, which is, ironically, another male-dominated industry. Bryngelson somehow manages to balance these two jobs while also being the primary caretaker of the house and the coach of her daughter’s volleyball team.
“Just being able to juggle all this … I don’t want to be sexist, but I know for sure my husband could not do it,” she says with a laugh.
While a woman running a business may not seem as glamorous as a woman who brews, both should be given admiration in their own right.
“The women who have worked up to be a brewer in this industry have really just done it against the odds, so I really respect that.”
Bryngelson thinks very highly of brewers, whether women or men, but is “envious as hell” of them for being the rock stars of the industry.
“No one wants to meet the person who filled out all the paperwork to make the OLCC and ATF happy. There are no "Meet the HR/accounts payable/accounts receivable/compliance/CEO/marketing director" nights down at the local pub!
Brewers work hard, I know, I see them at our place daily. But other than scheduling brewing/bottling/grain deliveries, etc. — when they punch that clock, their workday is over. I worry about taxes, payroll, the prices of malt, hops, yeast — what our distributors are doing, what our reps are doing, staffing special events, all that.”
Even the most independent stars need a support team, and Bryngelson says she couldn’t run the show without the help of general manager Paul Huppert and her husband Mark, who started out as brewmaster and secretary and also is in charge of sales and distribution. When you see this duo interact, it’s evident that they’re still going strong after nearly nine years of professionally performing together.
It turns out that Bryngelson isn’t the only female triple threat worthy of the spotlight in Albany — one of the women she admires most in the beer industry is quite literally the girl next door — or at least a few blocks over.
Jamie Howard co-owns Albany-based Deluxe Brewing and Sinister Distilling along with her husband Eric/“Howie.” Like Bryngelson, Howard has two young kids at home. However, on top of running not only a brewery but also a distillery, she still works full time at another job. “My outside job is only half time! She makes me feel lazy!” Bryngelson exclaims.
Bryngelson and Howard were invited to give a co-presentation at the Albany Regional Museum a little more than a year ago. “We’re two women in beer, let’s focus on the real history,” Bryngelson says. The pair spoke about the “origins of how it was all women (who started making beer) and that’s where the whole ‘brew-ha witch thing’ came from.”
Other female superstars Bryngelson admires include Pink Boots Society founder and “pioneer” Teri Fahrendorf and 10 Barrel Brewing’s Tonya Cornett, described as an “award-winning brewer who has earned a lot of respect, and because of her skill and experience, can work wherever and command whatever she wants. Just like the guys!” Women Enjoying Beer founder Ginger Johnson also made it on the list. Johnson actually used Calapooia’s Chili Beer for a cheese pairing at the Spring Beer and Wine Fest a few years ago, which helped the beer gain some extra recognition.
“I wish I was more involved in some of these women’s groups, I just have no real extra time. I should be, as a woman in beer, getting out more and getting more women (involved with) beer. I’m just busy trying to get the kids out the door.”
Bryngelson might not consider herself to be a rock star in the beer industry, but she definitely gained a fan out of me.
[a] 140 NE Hill St., Albany
The Empowerment Project documentary, produced by Heartfelt Productions, was in McMinnville filming Teri Fahrendorf and the Pink Boots Society in 2013. The organization was at Heater Allen Brewing doing a collaboration brew with Lisa Allen, the assistant brewer and daughter of the brewmaster and owner, Rick Allen. Photo courtesy of Teri Fahrendorf
By Patty Mamula
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The day I caught up with Teri Fahrendorf, she was fielding phone calls, filing reports, handling customer requests and troubleshooting right and left -- a typical day in the life of the multitasking female beer pioneer. When we finally connected after a day of phone tag, she talked freely and fast -- so fast I struggled to keep up.
Ever the trailblazer for women and beer, Fahrendorf took on a new role about six years ago as a sales rep for the Country Malt Group. She handles nine different malt brands as well as hops and other beer supplies for the company, a subsidiary of Great Western Malting.
Recently business has been hopping (pun intended), so her territory of Oregon and Washington was reduced by about half to Washington only. Fahrendorf sees herself as a good malt ambassador and consultant in the brewing process. After spending nearly 20 years as a brewer, she has plenty of credibility and experience to draw from.
She was the first female craft brewmaster who was not an owner, hired in 1989 at Golden Gate Brewing in California. The two women craft brewers who preceded her were Mellie Pullman, a brewer and partner at Schirf Brewing Company in Park City, Utah, and Carol Stoudt, brewmaster and owner at Stoudt’s Brewing in Adamstown, Pa.
Fahrendorf’s interest in beer grew out of homebrewing. Tired of working as an analyst, she decided to go to the Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago to see if she could get a job as a brewer. Of the 24 people in her class, she was one of two women, the only microbrewer and one of the few who weren’t working for a large, domestic brewery.
“The first day of class, they asked what brands do you brew? I didn’t brew brands, I brewed styles. I looked up all the breweries in Chicago and organized brew field trips -- a beer of the world tasting tour with all different styles,” said Fahrendorf. She also organized a class brew. Her classmates recognized her initiative and selected her as the first female class president.
Once she got her start, she was off and brewing, working 17 of her 20 years at Steelhead Brewing in Eugene. Then she shifted gears to take a brewing road trip, allowing her to visit women brewers around the country, before launching the wildly popular nonprofit Pink Boots Society with the sole purpose of supporting women in beer. To become a member, you simply have to earn some income from beer and membership is free.
In its eighth year, Pink Boots is growing faster than ever, with chapters all around the globe. At the beginning of the year there were 1,350 members and now there are 1,700. That’s about 100 people joining each month. The networking benefit of Pink Boots is huge, but other pluses are educational seminars, meetings, the Craft Brewers Conference gathering and scholarships. “We award one new scholarship a month in the United States. We have two selection teams of volunteers that review the scholarship applications,” said Fahrendorf. ” Often the scholarships are for residence-based brewing courses. “We try to cover at least $250 a day, “she said.
In exchange for the scholarship, recipients are expected to “pay it forward.” This payment can take many shapes, from writing an article to giving a talk at the Craft Brewers Conference. “We are creating women leaders. Many of these gals haven’t been in that role before,” said Fahrendorf.
The organization is all-volunteer with the exception of the executive director Emily Engdahl. As the founder and executive director, Fahrendorf is the face of the organization, even though she is always trying to “get it off her plate.” The more it keeps growing, the more she is called in to help put out the fires.
One of the recent fundraising events for Pink Boots was a collaborative brew in conjunction with International Women’s Day on March 8. More than 100 breweries participated in making the same recipe. This year it was the 2015 Unite Red Ale. A portion of the sales from the beer go to Pink Boots.
In Oregon, the participating breweries were Lompoc, Green Dragon, Fort George, Chetco and Wild River. The brewing was open to any Pink Boots member, not just brewers. Breweries interested in participating in 2016 should check the Pink Boots website this fall.
What comes next for Fahrendorf? So many adventures await. “I feel like my whole life has been a Joseph Campbell ‘hero’s journey.’ I love what I’m doing right now, my job with Country Malt,” she said. Still, she would like to cook and homebrew more and wants experience with barrel aging and sours and, of course, she is always ready to help emerging people in the beer business.
Stories from the print edition of the Oregon Beer Growler.