By Sam Wheeler
For the Oregon Beer Growler
“It’s the climate,” is a fitting motto for the city of Grants Pass, and Climate City Brewing Company knows how to make those mild winters and warm summers just a little bit better.
With delicious beer, that is.
Climate City was filling its first pint glasses back in March in its revamped historic brick building at 509 SW G St., and it was looking to take its first-rate craft beers to the regional growler market this fall.
And maybe a few bar taps, said Climate City co-owner Steve Baksay.
“We want to be selective at first — kind of brand ourselves to the crowd around here before we start sneaking up to Portland,” said Baksay, who is also a self-employed physical therapist in Grants Pass.
For supplying kegs in Southern Oregon, the brewery has been eyeballing Gil’s in Ashland, Beerworks and Growler King in Medford and Frank N Stene’s Monster Growlers in Grants Pass.
The most popular beer at Climate City is its Nookie IPA, said Baksay, which comes in at 6.5 percent ABV and 65 IBUs. The beer is crisp and clean with a malt backbone — everything you’d expect from a Northwest IPA.
The brewery pours three additional core beers: an easy-drinking Yellow Belly Blonde at 4.8 percent ABV and 20 IBUs; Rainie Falls Red at 5.5 percent ABV and 50 IBUs, which nails that hard-to-find, malty-bitter balance; and the Hyperion Porter at 5.8 percent ABV and 40 IBUs, which would make a splendid breakfast or shower beer.
At Climate City’s circa-1886 digs, though, beer is only one side of the story, said Mike Held, general manager of the restaurant, who, prior to settling in Grants Pass in August, called Texas and South Carolina home.
“I have had some pretty good restaurants under my belt and this place takes the cake in ambiance and beauty, along with the food and beer,” said Held. “I am just really excited about the direction that we are heading.”
The smoked duck poutine is one of the most popular menu items, he said, as has been the blackened-salmon and chipotle cream pasta dish dubbed “Mamacita.”
The restaurant boasts about 200 seats, Held said, 50 of which are outdoors. The restaurant’s outdoor patio is perched above Gilbert Creek with a fireplace centerpiece and hops growing nearby.
Brewmaster Brandon Crews joined the Climate City team from Rock Bottom Brewery in Portland, said Baksay, and has been a perfect fit.
Baksay, who owns the brewery and restaurant with his wife Jodi Paquin, a social worker, and longtime friends Mark Simchuk and his wife Christine Meis, who are local podiatrists, said Climate City will be looking to add another 20- to 30-barrel system in addition to is current 10-barrel system sometime next year.
The system will go in at a new site and coincide with the brewery switching gears into production mode with bottling and distribution, Baksay said.
“We’re looking forward to the next year,” he said. “We’ve already learned so much.”
It’s been an exciting journey, Baksay said, since the four co-owners started bantering with each other about starting their own brewery at the Winter Brewfest at Josephine County Fairgrounds in November 2013.
“After two or three, or four pints of beer we started talking about breweries,” Baksay said. And the rest is Climate City.
By Sam Wheeler
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The secret is out.
Some of Southern Oregon’s best craft beer flows from the side panel of a 1930 Ford Tudor Sedan.
Medford-based nano Rusty Bucket Brewing is embarking on its sophomore year in the Rogue Valley’s flourishing craft brew scene, and owner Paul Woolley is working on plans to open a brewery and taproom for the public within 18 months.
It’s not that Woolley’s garage, where he used to build custom hot rods, is a bad place to brew beer or drink it, it’s just that Rusty Bucket has been flooring it since the flag dropped go.
Rusty Bucket’s Sniper, a dead-on imperial IPA, is what everyone is after, Woolley says.
“It’s a pretty awesome beer ... a home-run hitter,” he says.
“You have to be careful with it because it’s really easy to drink and it’s about 8.9 to 9 percent. But it doesn’t slap you in the face and make your eyes water, so you’ll keep drinking them. Then you’ll get up and you can’t walk,” he laughs, stirring hops into another boiling batch of brew just inside the open door of his garage.
Woolley says Rusty Bucket will most likely never sign a distribution agreement on his watch. While his dreams for Rusty Bucket may be small, they are of magnificent quality.
Tap to glass, that’s how beer is meant to go down. And that’s how Rusty Bucket’s fine brew exclusively will, he says.
Rusty Bucket’s brewery and taproom will likely be located in Central Point, Medford or Talent. Until then, Rusty Bucket beer can be found on tap at four locations in Southern Oregon: Growler King, 1211 E. Jackson St., Medford; Oregon Pour Authority, 208 NW Sixth St., Grants Pass; Frank N Stene's Monster Growlers, 950 SW Sixth St., Grants Pass; and Old 99 Road Beer & Wine — where you can also drink a pint — at 18 W. Stewart Ave., Medford.
Woolley says he has to turn down a few new accounts each month because he wouldn’t be able to brew enough beer on his 1-barrel system to satisfy that many customers. Currently, he is brewing between two and four barrels a week.
Once he finds a building for Rusty Bucket’s taproom and brewery, he plans to upgrade to a 5-barrel system and will probably stay that size until it’s time to call it quits or pass the torch.
“Going for it big is for the young guys. I am getting too old for that,” says Woolley, 55. “I am just passionate about beer.”
In addition to Rusty Bucket’s Sniper Imperial IPA, there is Bunkhouse Brown Ale that tastes like the usual straightforward malt before balancing out with a modest burst to hops; 5 Speed IPA is a smooth drinker with citrus tones and comes in at a comfortable 6.5 percent and 70 IBUs; Rusty Red is at its roots just a hopped-up amber — and one of Woolley’s first brews — but its malty edge and hoppy clean finish makes it a winner; and Wide Open Throttle Stout ... well you get the idea. It packs the punch and grace of a race car weaving through the pack and making it across the finish line first.
With plenty in the tank, Woolley thinks Rusty Bucket will be able to hang — quality-wise — with any brewery in Oregon for years to come. And what better place than right where he is at, he says.
“I think we’re just getting started down here. I think we’re going to see this place become a little bit like Bend ... we have the demographic here,” says Woolley.
The only problem any beer maker in Southern Oregon has, Woolley insists, is not being able to make enough beer.
And there are certainly worse problems to have.
Stories from the print edition of the Oregon Beer Growler.