Beyond The Well and Light Lager: How Tullamore is Trying to Bring Back the Boilermaker With Craft Beer
By Branden Andersen
For the Oregon Beer Growler
“A shot of whiskey with a beer is one of the oldest drinking traditions,” said Jane Maher, a petite blond Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey brand ambassador with a thick Irish accent. “Our grandfathers and great grandfathers in Ireland were drinking this combo at their pubs. It’s part of the drinking culture.”
It’s only natural that Tullamore D.E.W., one of the oldest Irish Whiskey distillers in the world, is fighting to bring back that traditional pairing with modern craft beers.
The “D.E.W. and a Brew” tour, which made its Portland stop at Cascade Brewing in mid-January, aimed to bring awareness to pairing the Tullamore Irish Whiskey portfolio with the wide array of beers available in today’s craft climate. While the history of the boilermaker does not have a defined start, it is traditionally made up of a combination of an American whiskey and an American light lager like Budweiser or Coors. With the craft beer revolution in full swing, the bitterness and complexity of IPAs were initially too much to pair with Jack Daniel’s and Jim Beam.
But, give a complex beer — like those from Cascade Brewing — a complex whiskey — like Tullamore D.E.W.’s Special Reserve — and you have a completely different experience.
“Highlighting the two, how the two come together and what they have to bring to each other, that’s what makes this pairing special,” Maher said.
No pairing exemplified how each beverage can improve the other more than the Tullamore D.E.W. 12-Year-Old Special Reserve and Cascade Brewing’s Oblique Black and White Coffee Stout. The caramel, vanilla and wood character from the 12-Year — one of the most-awarded whiskeys in Tullamore D.E.W.’s portfolio — brought out a unique red berry, apricot and overripe mango aroma and flavor from a cold-brewed coffee addition in the light stout.
The team at Cascade Brewing, known for big wood barrel-aged beers, was so impressed with this pairing, they are remaking this beer with Tullamore D.E.W., using whiskey-soaked barrel staves for added character.
“When we were looking to make these pairings, we wanted to look at how they both stand together and how they stand apart,” said Michael Mathis, brewer/cellarman at Cascade, as he presented the brewery’s classic Kriek paired with the rare Tullamore D.E.W. Phoenix. The pairing contrasted the bright lactic cherry character of the Kriek with the clean oak and caramel character of the whiskey.
A common theme was brought up through the course of the presentation, similar to the old adage “What grows together, goes together.” During a tour of Cascade Brewing’s Barrel House, Cascade’s brewmaster Ron Gansberg and Tullamore D.E.W. global brand ambassador John Quinn were comparing barley variety, mash temperatures and aging techniques. Pre-distilled whiskey is essentially a clean malt beverage, similar to beer only without the use of hops, using a combination of barley, corn, wheat and rye depending on the region in which it’s created. The distilled liquor is then aged in wooden barrels made with different wood varieties, once again, depending on the region.
The Tullamore ambassadors had plenty of breweries to choose from when looking at Portland for a stop, but chose Cascade over others because they are unique when compared to other breweries on the tour. But more importantly, they have local love and respect.
“[Cascade] is a small, beloved brewery that’s been around for a long time,” Maher said. “We respect that, and love what they’ve been doing.”
The 19 state tour runs through March 15, starting in Southern California and ending in Chicago. The partner breweries are largely small, local operations in the respective state. For more information, visit dewandabrew.com.
I had such an enlightening experience attending the tasting with the teams from Tullamore D.E.W and Cascade that I needed to step out of my reporter perspective and share my personal experience.
I had seen PBRs with bourbon shots around Portland bars here and there, and even tried it myself with well whiskey and a local IPA. For some reason, I could not enjoy the two together, and ended up shooting the whiskey with a couple of gulps of beer — neither as satisfying as if I drank one without the other.
The idea of sour beers with whiskey was increasingly confusing, but as I sat at the Raccoon Lodge with a group of other journalists, ambassadors and industry members, it started to make sense. I took a sip of whiskey “the size of a teardrop” to warm and acclimate the palate, as Jane Maher instructed. Then I took another small sip and let it rest on my tongue to savor the flavors of oak, citrus peel, mulling spice and caramel, letting the alcohol evaporate slightly. After those two sips, I jumped over to Cascade’s Tangerine Dream, a sour with a light, sweet malt backbone that rounded out the whiskey flavors. The bright acidity of the tangerine was enveloped by the spiciness of the whiskey.
It was a sensory dream; an intriguing sip-by-sip experience that I could have continued all day if the alcohol didn’t continue to creep up on me like my newfound fondness of the pairing.
I’ve continued my sensory exploration since my Tullamore D.E.W. experience, and have found many interesting pairings: sweet bourbon with a mulling-spiced snakebite, a smoky and fruity scotch with a balanced IPA, and a rye whiskey with a malt-forward imperial red. It’s been extremely exciting, and I hope you try some yourself.
Ron Gansberg (right), brewmaster for Cascade Brewing Barrel House, says the biggest challenge when creating spiced beer is having enough time to spend with the spice in raw form to obtain the most complete understanding of how to use each one. Kevin Martin, lead blender, agrees that time is a huge ingredient. Photo by Emma Browne
By Kris McDowell
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The holidays wouldn't be the same without spices — they infuse the air with warm, welcoming aromas and contribute distinct flavors to food and drink — bringing to mind memories of gatherings filled with family, friends and cheer.
Cascade Brewing Barrel House, led by Ron Gansberg, is a brewery that fully embraces the use of spices in their beers. While they offer spice beers year-round, many people tend to associate fall with the flavorful variety as we begin to turn to seasonal food that works well with spices, like pumpkins and apples, which are also in abundance. One of many spiced beers Cascade turns out is called Pumpkin Smash, which is made with local, organic Cinderella pumpkins from Sauvie Island that are then roasted in-house. The Northwest-style sour ale is barrel aged for 11 months and still highly drinkable at 11.4 percent ABV due to a combination of spices that bring to mind pumpkin pie.
The use of spices is not new, having been a mainstay in beer making since the beginning, but in recent history their presence has been overshadowed by other ingredients — primarily hops. Ron’s work continues to buck that trend and it’s an ongoing project to master Cascade’s spiced beer game. When asked what the biggest challenge is when creating spiced beer, his answer was having enough time to spend with the spice in raw form to obtain the most complete understanding of how and when to use each one. Some spices are more stable than others, retaining consistency throughout the life of the beer; others might be more prominent early on only to eventually fade, quickly or slowly, as the beer matures. That factor is particularly important at Cascade since so many of their beers spend time aging in barrels. Kevin Martin, lead blender at Cascade, explains that when making spiced beer, it must be understood that "time is a huge ingredient."
Just as hops can be added during the boil, during aging or even right before serving by using a Randall, spices may also be introduced at different points throughout the beer-making process. Cascade's spice regimen includes kettle spicing, barrel spicing and spicing at blending, all of which have been developed over time with the help of detailed notes that track how the spices are expressed in the beer. The careful note taking allows Cascade to refine its processes.
Kettle spicing happens during brewing and builds a good base layer of flavor. When added at this point, the flavors have the opportunity to not only be more integrated, but they may also be transformed at the molecular level during fermentation. Barrel spicing doesn't provide the level of integration that kettle spicing does, but just as an application of salt and pepper enhances a dish before it’s served, adding the element as the beer ages is an important step in creating the final product. Both methods are important, each providing their own flavor contribution to the beer. Then comes the "eleventh hour correction," or spicing at blending. This is the blender's last hurrah with the beer in an effort to make it the perfect concoction.
Vlad the Imp Aler, a sour ale that is a blend of blonde quads, tripels and blondes that have been aged more than 18 months in bourbon and wine barrels, was the first spiced beer that Ron made at Cascade. When asked why he first decided to make a spiced beer, Ron said it was because he felt that the spicing complemented where the beer was going and also helped define and frame the brew. As for the how — his process and way of doing things — that’s something he’s intentionally developed through trial and error without turning to other breweries’ methods as a model. While one might think it would be useful to learn from what others are doing, his view is that if he learned other breweries' processes, essentially he'd just be making their beers instead of making his own. That's a pretty enlightened view, even if it has meant that he's had to work harder to figure it out on his own rather than learning from others.
Ron’s independence isn’t the only element that makes Cascade’s beers so unique. The brewery’s extensive blending program also sets it apart. Vlad the Imp Aler is a prime example, drawing from multiple styles and likely multiple vintages each time it's created. And blending is not for the faint of heart. While with brewing you can experiment with test batches, blending cannot feasibly be done small-scale. As Ron explained it, blending is something he’s just had to go forward with despite any fear of the outcome. Were he to have proceeded with caution, giving into uncertainty and concern, Cascade would be light-years behind where they are today. Thankfully, Ron forged ahead.
One of his newest creations is Mulled Apple Sour. Just as Pumpkin Smash was made with spices you’d associate with pumpkin pie, this beer is reminiscent of freshly baked apple pie due to the spices, vanilla and honey. Presented for the first time this year, as the chill was just starting to creep into the air, it's a strong opening act to Glueh Kriek. Cradling the glass of warm liquid is as comforting as being handed a plate of fresh-from-the-oven pie that was almost cut too soon, allowing the warm goodness to ooze out.
Glueh Kriek, a mulled beer some may have enjoyed last year, is both sweeter and more acidic than the Mulled Apple Sour, with an intense cherry flavor and undeniable presence of cinnamon and clove. Deep red in color, served with a clove-spiked orange slice, breathing in its aroma is like breathing in the best of the holidays. It’s a beer that fully embodies the depth and breadth of Cascade’s spicing and blending program.
So what's next for Cascade? There's no clear answer, but Ron is continually bringing in new spices and experimenting with them to determine which express themselves well and which do not. Those in the former group will get further attention to figure out how and when to apply each spice to bring them to their fullest potential. Then there are some that fall in between, such as cardamom, which are much more challenging to apply. Not one to shy away from the challenge, it's more a matter of when, not if, Ron will unlock the key to using it. Whatever the result, it's sure to be a unique creation — the result of the dedication to the craft of brewing, spicing and blending that Cascade is known for.
Cascade Brewing Barrel House
[a] 939 SE Belmont St., Portland
By Emily Engdahl
What brought you to Oregon? Are you an Oregon native?
I am an Oregonian and really what a great time to be one with the beer, food scene doing what it is now.
When / how did you get involved in Oregon's Beer industry?
I was introduced to the industry by a friend who made a home brew beer that was a clone of my favorite beer from Nor' Wester Brewing. I went out the next day and bought a kit and started making beer. All kinds of beer. Soon after I attended my first beer festival and Joined the Oregon Brew Crew. I started volunteering for so many shifts that I was asked to be a lead and then the bar manager. It was kind of by accident that I got into the industry, but it was fueled by good beer and the search for more.
What do you do in the industry? (Cascade Barrel House / Holiday Ale Fest, etc.)
At my day job I am the General Manager of the Barrel House Pub and I do the Sour beer Blending with Ron Gansberg on the production side. On my weekends I work at beer festivals in some type or fashion. Draft tech, bar manager, site manager, beer coordinator and consulting. For the Holiday Ale I am the General Manager and that means having my hands in all aspects of the fest. From the set up and tear down to working with the brewers and managing the event. It's a lot of work but it is also a lot of fun.
Tell us a little about what you love about working with beer & the people in beer?
Well, it certainly does not hurt that you can drink your work. More than that the creative, passionate characters that I have met are so down to earth yet total dreamers when it comes to beer. It's great to come to work and know that it is not going to be another day at the office.
What do you look most forward to each year before the Holiday Ale Fest?
The conversations with the brewers about the beers that they are thinking of making. The process, the special grains or hops, the barrel aging, it's pure beer geek and I love it.
What is your favorite Oregon "holiday ale?"
Who can you have a favorite when there are so many, but like any beer geek, I like the one I'm drinking but I am always looking for the next one I have not had to come over the bar top.
Do you have any favorite pairings with beer & food that you think readers should try?
I am really into pairing a food with two beers, a comparisons and contrasts. It is really nice to see two different beers pull something different from the same dish. One beer might go with the base item, like braised beef, and the second might have hops that go with the spices in the food. I
Cascade is renowned for it's barrel aging program and weekly releases - how do you manage such a massive undertaking?
It's fun. If it was not fun it might be harder. But in the end I need a lot of projects and the different sour beers that we produce need constant tending.
How do you express your creativity in beer?
Probably mostly through the live barrel releases and the blending of the beers.
Is your focus primarily on beer as a science or an art form, or do you see it as both?
I see both and really you need to have both to make it work, but if I had to pick one as a major I would say the art of the beer has always been more fun, but the science is revealing and that is fun as well.
Cascade shows a keen focus on food & beer together - how do you create the showcase of menu items with your beers (with your team / by yourself)?
I work with my Chef Troy and the would kitchen crew to try to find different things that we can make in our tiny, limited kitchen that go with all the sour and non soured beers we make. It a lot of fun to talk about flavors with beer and food, really, anything is possible.
How do you feel about the growth of craft beer in the United States?
Well, it's good, I sometime want to see more and at other times I think maybe some people are doing it for the wrong reasons. In the end you hope it evens out. I think there is room for more breweries and more creativity and experimentation with beers.
What do you see / wish for sours / wild ales in trends or gaining exposure across the US?
Well, I think everyone should try a sour or two, you never know you just might find you favorite beer you never knew of. I think you will see more breweries trying their hand at sours, I don't think most will stick with it, it takes more time and in that respect it is like lagering a beer, few will want to invest in the extra time, but for those that do they will become really good at it.
Anything else you want to tell us about who you are and what makes you love working in beer?
I don't sleep much, I am always looking for a new beer or twist on an existing beer. I think special events are a great way to draw focus on what we do in the beer world, be that a festival, beer dinner or cheese or chocolate pairing. I like to work hard and at the end of the day, knowing I have something to do with the beer I am drinking is very rewarding.
Stories from the print edition of the Oregon Beer Growler.